A Simple Seed-Starting Guide for a Strong Growing Season
If you’re gearing up for a new season in the garden, now’s the time to get your plan together. Whether you’re growing in raised beds, containers, or right in the ground, a little prep upfront saves a whole lot of frustration later. Around here at Black’s Tropical, we grow with intention — and we get a ton of our seeds from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. They recently shared a helpful planting guide that lines up perfectly with what we teach and what we do, so today we’re breaking it down in a simple, no-nonsense way to help you get started.
Garden success starts long before the first seed goes in the soil. Every variety has its own timing, light needs, spacing, and temperature requirements — and ignoring those details is the fastest way to waste seeds and time.
Cool-weather crops like lettuce, radishes, and carrots can be sown directly and will forgive a later start. But warm-season favorites — peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, squash — need a little more love and a lot more patience. These heat-lovers won’t tolerate cold soil or frost, so you’ll want to start them indoors and transplant when the weather stabilizes.
Planning isn’t about overthinking. It’s about giving each plant what it needs so it can give you everything it’s got.
If you’re starting seeds inside, skip the garden soil completely. Use a light, airy seed-starting mix so those new roots can breathe. Cover your seeds lightly — most don’t need more than a dusting of soil — and keep everything evenly moist. A humidity dome or clear cover helps until germination.
As soon as the seedlings emerge, give them strong light. A sunny window works for some people, but grow lights make a noticeable difference — short, strong seedlings grow into sturdy, productive plants. Keep the lights just a few inches above the seedlings and run them 14–16 hours a day.
Once your seedlings develop their first true leaves, you can start feeding lightly and transplant into bigger pots when they feel crowded.
Transplant shock is real, and it will stall your plants for a week or more if you skip this step. Before planting outside, bring your seedlings outdoors gradually — an hour or so the first day, then more each day for about a week. This strengthens the stems, toughens the leaves, and prepares them for real sunlight and wind.
Spacing matters, too. Overcrowded plants compete for nutrients and airflow, and that invites pests and disease. Give each variety the room it needs to breathe and sprawl. You’ll get stronger plants and a bigger harvest with far less work.
Don’t sleep on summer and fall planting. A lot of gardeners wrap up after their spring harvest, but you can absolutely extend your season with a mid-summer or early-fall garden. Many crops thrive in cooling temperatures and shorter days — and a second round of planting keeps those beds productive well into autumn.
Harvest early and often if you want tender greens and the sweetest roots. For storage crops like winter squash and potatoes, let them fully mature. Anything you don’t eat fresh can be frozen, canned, or dehydrated to keep your pantry stocked through winter.
If you’re saving seeds, stick to one variety per species unless you’re intentionally hybridizing. Tomatoes, beans, and lettuces are some of the easiest plants to save seed from, and it’s one of the best ways to build garden resilience year after year.
We love experimenting and sharing our own methods, but credit where it’s due — Baker Creek’s planting guide is a solid resource for gardeners of any level. It breaks down timing, spacing, indoor-starting basics, and more. If you want to dive deeper into their full recommendations, check out the guide here:
👉 Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds Planting Guide
https://www.rareseeds.com/planting-guide
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